Inevitable, but a long time coming … a post on Sri Lankan frogs!
Six Toed Frog?
Many times during our holiday I heard frog calls, but without suitable clothing and equipment a frog expedition was not really practical, so I had to wait patiently until either the frogs came to me or until I stumbled upon one. Considering that there are 118 frogs recorded as existing in Sri Lanka my chances were pretty good.
High up the mountain in a lily pond at Dambulla Caves there were several very plain, not particularly photogenic and as yet un-identified frogs. But at Lunuganga, with the assistance of Damien the in-house wildlife expert, we spotted multiple frogs, two of whom I managed to photograph.
It’s two weeks since I last posted an entry … and I am blaming this on a combination of sensory overload, a tummy bug and lack of access to wifi.
In the last days of our holiday, the highlights came thick and fast. After leaving Kandy, we travelled through Sri Lanka’s Golden Triangle, and I think it’s fair to say that we were all overwhelmed with culture, colour and history.
We stayed at the Heritance Kandelama hotel, designed by the famed architect Geoffrey Bawa. Built around a rocky cave outcrop and covered in vines, the hotel offers guests views of Sigiriya Rock and offers the local monkeys views of the guests.
Kandelama Hotel
We visited the wonderful world heritage Dambulla Cave Temple complex commenced in the 1st century BC by King Valagamba. A series of five rock temples situated approximately halfway up a 500 metre granite outcrop, they contain a rich collection of paintings, narrative panels and innumerable golden buddhas. Possibly the highlight of my holiday.
Then to Polonnaruwa, another world heritage site. Once the capital of Sri Lanka from 11th to 13th centuries and a massive 122 hectare complex of stupas, baths, shrines, hospitals, houses and ponds, built at the edge of the even larger ancient man made tank (reservoir) called Parakrama Samudra.
On Poson Poya day we joined thousands of pilgrims at Anuradhapura one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities and extensive ruins in the world and one of the eight world heritage sites in Sri Lanka. With it’s multi-storied monasteries roofed with gilt bronze tiles, encircled by great walls and containing elaborate bathing ponds, bathrooms and pavilions, it must have been an amazing sight.
Anuradhapura temple baths
And finally, two peaceful nights at Lunuganga, Bawa’s legendary country estate. Surrounded by lush, inspirational tropical gardens and overlooking Dedduwa Lake, there is no television, wifi, room service or a mini bar, just simple food and the sound of birds and the rain dripping from the trees. Lunuganga has the air of a gently decayed historic site.
Here it is, a photo of the group enjoying a Sri Lankan feast … proof that we shopped in the markets of Kandy, bought fish and meat displayed in what Westerners consider worryingly un-sanitary conditions, cooked it ourselves, then ate it … and lived to tell the tale.
We cooked Duntel Bath, chicken, beef pepper and white fish curry, Potato Bedum, Tempered Beans, and Watalappan. Several Arrack (local coconut liquor) and passion fruit cocktails accompanied the meal, and according to our ever diplomatic guide Benjamin – our curries tasted completely authentic.
A big thanks to the chefs at Earl’s Regency hotel who supervised our cooking adventure
Actually there are 1200 steps to the top, and that doesn’t include the steps we had to climb to get to the steps, nor the kilometre or so walk from the car park, nor the return journey.
Sigiriya Rock is a “fortress in the sky” a massive monolith rising 200 metres above the surrounding plain. It is topped by the ruins of a Buddhist monastery dating from the 3rd century BC and subsequently a palace in the 5th century.
View from the top
You reach the ruins and cave paintings by climbing a combination of uneven sometimes slippery stone steps, spiral staircases and platforms hanging over sheer drops. Needless to say, as I suffer from a touch of acrophobia, I spent most of the time with my eyes locked on either the rock wall or on the steps. It wasn’t until I reached the top that I could relax and fully appreciate the fabulous 360 degree views of the surrounding countryside.
I think it’s fair to say that Di, Jim, Carol, Kerrie and I were pretty impressed with ourselves for making it to the top. Jim deserves a special mention as he completed the climb with a handicap … a squidgy stomach … and there are NO toilets ANYWHERE on the climb !!
A Bellingen Diary 