Category: Travel

Macaron Madness …

Published on by FJB

The whole world seems to have gone mad for macarons ….  and for a while I wondered why.  I mistakenly thought that macaron was the posh French name for macaroons – those lumps of dessicated coconut and condensed milk I had eaten in my childhood.  I remember quite enjoying macaroons at the time, but now I realise that macarons and macaroons are light years apart.

A macaron is a meringue confection made of ground almond, egg white and sugar, sandwiched together with a flavored buttercream, ganache or jam.  The classic macaron shell should crackle as you bite into it, the centre should be dense but not chewy, and the filling should not be overly sweet.

Once I had tasted my first really good macaron, I too became obsessed … I tried macarons made by great names like Ladurée, Hediard, and Fauchon in Paris.  I tried them at Liberty’s and Harrods in London and even Canelé and Jones the Grocer in Singapore. So far, the most delicious macaron I have tasted is Ladurée’s Cassis & Violet – two little lilac coloured clouds separated by an intense layer of tangy blackcurrant jam.

But watch this space … I have yet to sample any of the weird and wonderful creations by Adriano Zumbo, or a classic by Vincent Gadan (who recently appeared on Australian Masterchef) .

 So many macarons, so little time !!

  

Tekka Market – sensory overload …

Published on by FJB

If food is music for the soul, then the food markets of Provence are classical music and Tekka Market is heavy metal.  Be prepared for a barrage of smells, sights and sounds if you visit Tekka Market at the start of Serangoon Road, and Little India.

On the ground floor is a hawker centre with stalls selling Indian and Chinese vegetarian, North Indian and Malay food. At the wet market which is on the same level, stalls sell fresh seafood, especially crabs from Sri Lanka, and and what looked disturbingly like baby white pointer sharks. There are “fresh” meat stalls which should be avoided – nothing that smells like that should be eaten.
It would probably kill you !
On the second floor Shops sell traditional Indian costumes and inexpensive casual clothes.  Dazzled by the glittering jewel encrusted costumes, I was in the midst of negotiations to buy a shimmering purple sari when I came to my senses, much to the disgust of the stall owner.
When it all becomes too much for you, you can wander the streets of Little India, eat a vegetarian meal on a banana leaf, or catch the MRT home from the Little India station nearby.
Another warning – don’t go anywhere near the public toilets…. !!

 

Meeting the Mud Maid …

Published on by FJB

The Mud Maid lies sleeping peacefully in a grove of trees not far from the entrance to The Lost Gardens of Heligan in Cornwall.  Made from clay, straw and cement, she has hair of wood-sedge and a body covered with moss and ivy. Together with the Giant’s Head she has become a symbol of the restoration of the gardens.
The Heligan estate has been in existence since the 1200’s and gradually grew in size and stature, becoming not only a pleasure garden but a fully productive vegetable garden employing 22 staff. The garden started to decline with the advent of the First World War, when many of the gardening staff enlisted and never returned.
Over the next 75 years, the garden became increasingly neglected and overgrown until in 1990 the derelict gardens were “discovered” and work began to restore it to its former glory.  Heligan has been called “the garden restoration of the century”, and was voted “the Nation’s favourite garden”.  To explore the gardens in their entirety takes a full day … our feet gave out after four hours.

London remembered …

Published on by FJB

I’m on the road again, so here are a few highlights from my visit to London:


The Wallace Collection – if you are not a fan of huge art galleries, this glittering treasure is the gallery for you.  25 small rooms containing displays of French 18th century painting, furniture and porcelain with superb Old Master paintings and a world class armoury.  It’s free, open seven days a week and there’s a lovely tearoom and restaurant in the courtyard.  Very impressive.

Marylebone High Street – less than ten minutes walk from Baker Street tube station.  It has a lovely village atmosphere and it’s relatively un-crowded, even on weekends.  There are patisseries, pubs, restaurants, boutiques, whole food cafes and a fabulous fromagerie.  The high street is also close to Regent’s Park, The Wallace Collection and Madame Tussauds.


The Liberty’s department store just off Regent Street near Oxford Circus first opened in 1875.  The current building is Grade II* listed, built in the Tudor Revival style in the 1920’s.  The store was constructed from the timbers of two ships and has wonderfully creaky floors and stairwells.  Worth a visit to browse through the high-end fashion, take afternoon tea or buy a unique souvenir.


Renaissance St Pancras Hotel – after years of neglect, this hotel was saved from demolition. Last year, one decade and a billion pounds later it re-opened.  The renovation is absolutely top class and even if you are not lucky enough to be staying there (as I was) you can have a drink or take afternoon tea in the old Booking Hall or the Lobby.  St Pancras railway station itself is worthy of a visit – with its huge steel arches, statues and on the top level up-market bars and brasseries.  If you are catching the Eurostar it might be worth arriving early so you have time to absorb the Gothic Revival atmosphere.


Cornwall Mansions – now this bit of nostalgia is probably of no interest to anyone but me.  It’s where I lived when I worked in London in the 70’s.  It was the time of Carnaby Street and  Mary Quant and the iconic Biba department store in Kensington High Street was just around the corner.  Sadly it’s all pretty much ancient history now but at the time it was all rather exciting.